Robert Heywood
CHIEF WINEMAKER
AT TALTARNI ESTATE
“I love new challenges and no two days in a winery are the same.”
When did you realise you wanted to become a winemaker?
Tasting wine in the south of France, being surrounded by the vines and seeing the fruit before harvest was enticing. Knowing that I was tasting what was on the vines two years prior was fascinating.
Please tell us about your career so far.
I studied Viticulture and Oenology at Latrobe University, then worked as an assistant winemaker in Barossa. While living in South Australia, I completed a couple of vintages in St. Emilion in Bordeaux and another in Napa, California. I then moved to the Pyrenees region and started at Taltarni in 2009.
What do you love most about being a winemaker?
Seeing a wine progress from grape to bottle over fifteen months is really rewarding. You can see the potential early in the fruit, then in the barrel or tank as it ages. Watching it evolve is really satisfying.
What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?
Taltarni GSM – I love grenache and related blends. They offer so much scope from flavour to palate, which is why it can go with so many dishes, from rich red meats to lighter pasta dishes. A slowcooked beef ragu is a personal favourite.
Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?
I loved the 2014, 2016, and 2018 vintages, all of which produced fantastic fruit character with lovely structure. Some of our finest wines in recent years have come from these vintages.
Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?
This is a little tough as I have only been home and in charge for two vintages so far. Due to the pandemic, I was only able to return shortly before the vintage in 2022, so it was quite chaotic. However, the wines are looking good so far and I was able to learn a lot about the potential of our sites. Having said this, the 2023 vintage just gone was one of the hardest growing seasons in the vineyards I have ever experienced. So I would say I am very proud of my vineyard team managing to produce such quality fruit in difficult conditions.
How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?
The Pyrenees region has a cool climate but can produce lovely red wines. These hungry soils and cooler evenings allow the fruit to develop balance, finesse, and vibrancy on the vine. Our job is to deliver that in the drinking experience
Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in?
I tend to drink more cabernet in the cooler months, but as the weather warms, I move into pinot and grenache, then onto our blanc de blancs.
Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?
I think wines are increasingly being made to meet consumers’ desires for fruitfulness and vibrancy. I expect our wines to evolve into a younger and more approachable style, suited to a new demographic of wine drinkers.
From Wineries of Victoria – Issue 15, edited by Emily Axford