Hidden away in Geelong’s Moorabool Valley, Lethbridge Wines has built a strong reputation for itself locally and around the world for producing some of the region’s most interesting and acclaimed wines. With more than fifty varieties on offer, a visit to the Lethbridge cellar door is a masterclass in small batch winemaking with something for every palate and preference.

Lethbridge is located to the northwest of Geelong, and the vineyard site is one of the coolest of the Geelong region. The site was chosen after years of obsessing over geographic maps of Victoria analysing soil types and climactic indicators. The complex soil, comprised of black clay, basalt and limestone, lends itself to wines with deep concentration, intensity, freshness and a strong sense of place. Upon purchasing the site, an old wood fermentation vat was discovered and further research revealed that the site had been originally planted by Swiss vignerons in the 1800s.

Owners Ray and Maree replanted the vineyard in 1996 with a focus on pinot noir, chardonnay and shiraz – varieties most suited to the Moorabool Valley’s cool, dry and windy conditions. The winemaking and viticultural practices used at the winery are shaped by Maree and Ray’s previous lives as research scientists. Both Maree and Ray achieved PhDs in chemistry and medicine respectively and worked on the cutting edge of research for ten years before completing winemaking degrees at Charles Sturt University. Lethbridge blends biodynamic principles, traditional winemaking techniques with a healthy dose of experimental flare to create wines that capture the convergence of art and science.

With a cellar door at the home site in Lethbridge, as well as at its Hat Rock vineyard on the Bellarine Peninsula, Lethbridge is a stop not to be missed. A large dining table takes up the tasting room and represents an extension of Maree and Ray’s home – a space designed for visitors to sit down with the highly knowledgeable team and chat wine with maybe a scattering of philosophy and art. Pinot noir and chardonnay is the main game for winemaker Ray Nadeson but expect the unexpected, the wines here are serious, savoury and structured but the sense of play is strong and captivating.