When did you realise you wanted tobecome a winemaker?
I was running a bar in London almost twenty years ago, and went to the London Wine Trade Fair. [While I was there] I was blown away by the wines, and the passion of the winemakers – and that’s when I knew winemaking was the path for me. I [then] enrolled in an Oenology course at Adelaide University, and spent three months backpacking through the wine regions of Portugal, Spain and Italy. That was the beginning of the journey!
Please tell us about your career so far.
I studied Oenology at Adelaide University and have done vintages at Oakridge, Mitchelton and Lowe Family Wines here in Australia, and also vintages in V. Sattui, Napa. The majority of my winemaking career was spent as a flying winemaker for ten years, in Portugal for Esporao. Firstly in the Alentejo and then at Quinta dos Murcas in Douro, Esporao’s Douro Winery. These ten years had a huge impact on my winemaking, and much of what I learned in Portugal, has found its way into my winemaking techniques here in Heathcote.
What do you love most about being a winemaker?
I love the creative side of winemaking. I like that everything you do or do not do will have an impact on the final wine – whether it’s in the vineyard of the winery. I tend to micromanage, so to [be able] to see that even the small things you do have an impact, is very rewarding. The constant game of every vintage being different and working with – and sometimes against – nature is very engaging and stimulating. No day is ever the same! I run the vineyard and winery so there is always a mix [of things to do] as well as the hard-to-avoid office time. The mornings are stunning no matter what time of year, and I like to spend the first part of the day in the vineyard.
What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?
My favourite wine is Our MXW Shiraz. It is one of our single blocks that has so much complexity and it is a real journey wine. It drinks beautifully even after being open for a few days; it was 30-months in barrel but is incredibly elegant and structured, deep and dark yet bright and lively. I like to pair this wine with a high-grade wagyu beef fillet. The acidity in the wine cuts through the fattiness of the beef and the tannin-protein reaction is amazing.
Is there a specific process you follow when developing a new wine?
Up until now 2018 was our best vintage! 2021 is looking amazing and may surpass 2018, but it’s a little early to tell. 2018 will always go down as a year I am particularly proud of. We took over the vineyard a few months before the vintage was due to begin, and we inherited a winery with no equipment. We had to get on top of the vineyard and also understand its needs, as well as throwing together a winery at a time when not much equipment was available. Regular twenty-plus hour days were all worth it once the wines were pressed and the results were spectacular!
Is there any vintage you’re particularly proud of creating? Why?
Up until now 2018 was our best vintage! 2021 is looking amazing and may surpass 2018, but it’s a little early to tell. 2018 will always go down as a year I am particularly proud of. We took over the vineyard a few months before the vintage was due to begin, and we inherited a winery with no equipment. We had to get on top of the vineyard and also understand its needs, as well as throwing together a winery at a time when not much equipment was available. Regular twenty-plus hour days were all worth it once the wines were pressed and the results were spectacular!
How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?
Heathcote fruit is very much a result of the amazing soils and specific micro-climate that we are in. Heathcote, and Central Heathcote (where we are located) is especially marked by the almost-perfect ripening conditions that we enjoy. Warm days that produce concentrated yet balanced flavours that we enjoy, and wonderful cool nights which give the vines a chance to recover, and help to critically maintain their natural acidity. The 500+ million-year-old Cambrian soils are one of the other key components that set Heathcote apart. These soils have a magical relationship with shiraz, which is especially unique to Heathcote.
Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in?
We are currently very much shiraz dominant in terms of varietal percentages in the vineyard. We are very fortunate where we are to have sixteen different combinations of rootstock and clone of shiraz – this is where my indulgence comes in. [I have been able] to adjust my winemaking to suit the individual needs of each batch… so that our customers get to discover the amazing spectrum of flavours that shiraz can produce.
Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?
I struggle to think more than one year ahead! For me, the only real goal is to continue to work and make the wines better every year, through working more closely with the vineyard, producing the bestquality fruit and then creating some new wines in the winery. I look forward to being more experimental in my winemaking approach and pushing some limits, while still sticking to a very old world/new world mix approach to winemaking.
From Wineries of Victoria – Issue 12, edited by Bethany Hayes.