High Country, Fine Wine
Tucked in the rolling foothills of Victoria’s high country, the Beechworth wine region is one of Australia’s best-kept secrets. With its cool climate, ancient granite soils and a handful of fiercely passionate winemakers, Beechworth produces wines that are as distinctive as the landscape itself. From elegant chardonnay to bold shiraz and emerging varietals that push boundaries, this small but mighty region is earning a place on the global wine map. Join Wineries of Victoria’s Jessica Muller as she chats with Mark Walpole, vigneron at Fighting Gully Road, to uncover all this breathtaking region has to offer.
Walpole has a long history in the wine industry. “I cut my teeth beginning work at Brown Brothers in the late 1980s, working in roles in viticulture research and development, grower liaison, vineyard management and finally as their chief viticulturist for ten years,” he recounts. During that time, he established a vineyard in the Alpine Valleys with his two brothers, focusing on alternative grape varieties. Fighting Gully Road commenced with the purchase of land in 1995, with the first vines planted in 1997 and the first harvest in 2000.
Walpole believes that the real secret behind Beechworth’s world-class wines is its mineral-rich soil and elevation. “Beechworth may be small, but its vines punch well above their weight – thanks in part to our ancient soils that stress vines just enough to produce fruit of incredible concentration and finesse,” he explains. “This unique terroir, combined with high-elevation and cool nights, gives Beechworth’s chardonnay and shiraz their signature depth and elegance.”
THE NITTY GRITTY
The Beechworth wine region’s geographic indication (GI) was determined in 2000. “The lower parts of the GI are located from around 250 metres above sea level – producing bolder styles of both white and red wines; then rising to its highest point on Mount Stanley at 1040 metres above sea level,” Walpole details. “The region experiences more wind and lower humidities than the surrounding valley environments, meaning the wines work a little harder to produce fruit,” he adds.
“Beechworth as a town and wine region exist due to the intrusion of granites during the Devonian period (~390 million years ago) into the older sedimentary soils (~450 million years old),” Walpole explains. “It is where the two meet that gold exists. Had it not been for these geological features, I wouldn’t be talking to you today!”
The region principally has two soil tyles – those derived from granite, or those of sedimentary mudstones. “Wines made from the granite soils generally have lifted aromatics, while those from the red mudstone have an innate structure which allows for long term ageing,” Walpole says. “The sites around the township of Stanley (~750 metres) produce cooler climate varieties.”
DISTINCTIVE DROPS
In Beechworth’s early period as a wine region, growers mostly planted the classic French varieties, including chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and shiraz. As the region has grown, this focus has since shifted. “In more recent years, vignerons have begun experimenting with alternative varieties, some like sangiovese and nebbiolo are finding their perfect niche in the hills around the township,” Walpole states.
“Beechworth is currently a region in demand. High quality wines are produced by all of the vignerons. Our location north of the Great Diving Range protects us from much of the poor southerly weather systems during the spring,” he notes. “The difference in altitude across the district allows many different varieties and styles to be produced in what is Australia’s smallest wine region. Future vineyard growth at higher altitudes is inevitable in a warming (and drying) climate trend. This unique piece of Victoria will undoubtedly go on to become internationally renowned.”
Walpole reports that the 2025 vintage was almost perfect in every respect – no spring frost, good growing conditions and excellent weather caused over flowering, which resulted in a very good fruit set. Good weather also followed – dry, without heat spikes, resulting in excellent yields of disease-free fruit.
HERITAGE, HIKING & HIDDEN GEMS
“The Beechworth wine region is not only home to exceptional cool-climate wines, but also offers a rich blend of history, nature, gourmet dining and charming boutique experiences,” Walpole describes. The perfect time to visit Beechworth is in the spring, when there is a flush of new growth on the vines as well as the deciduous European trees in town coming into leaf. “The temperatures are perfect for getting out to explore the vineyards and the forests in the region,” Walpole assures.
Beechworth’s rich heritage is perfect for history lovers, with a range of sites and experiences on offer. “We have historic gold rush town charm, as the town was founded when gold was found back in 1852. Beechworth is known to be one of the best-preserved gold rush towns in Australia,” Walpole says. “You can wander down Ford Street for heritage buildings, old-world shopfronts and traditional pubs. Visitors can also visit the Beechworth Historic Courthouse and Old Telegraph Station, which are part of the Beechworth Historic Precinct,” Walpole adds. You can also learn about infamous bushranger Ned Kelly, who stood trial in the town, or visit the Burke Museum to discover rare relics from the gold rush and Indigenous history. For those seeking something a little slower, you can explore boutique galleries, artisan shops and antique stores, or visit one of the luxury day spas catering to visitors looking to unwind with a massage or simply relax in the garden with a coffee or a glass of local wine.
There are also plenty of nature and outdoor experiences, like the Gorge Scenic Walk, which is a beautiful one-way circuit offering panoramic views, waterfalls and granite outcrops. “A quick drive to Woolshed Falls is ideal for a relaxing picnic or walk, with a spectacular waterfall,” Walpole advises. “Beechworth and the high country have world-class mountain biking courses and trails for adrenaline seekers,” he adds.
TASTE THE TOWN
A visit to wine country wouldn’t be complete without delicious food to match. For those wanting a little bit of fine dining, Walpole recommends Provenance restaurant. “Located in a heritage building, the bank of Australasia, its fine dining with a Japanese-influenced menu using local ingredients. It’s a hatted venue and one of the state’s top regional restaurants,” he says. Alternatively, Ford Street Enoteca is centrally located on the mains street with French-Italian inspired dishes. “It’s known for its cosy atmosphere and locally sourced produce and wine list,” Walpole says. “Bridge Road Brewers, also on the main street, is a must-visit for craft beer lovers. It’s a great venue for rustic pizzas, with a casual atmosphere and family-friendly beer garden,” he adds.
Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or simply chasing a weekend escape, the Beechworth wine region offers a rare blend of character, craftsmanship and small-town charm. It’s a region that invites you to slow down, take in the rolling hills and savour the stories behind every glass, while it quietly but confidently carves out a name for itself on the global stage.
Images courtesy of Beechworth Vignerons Association