Peter Birks
Senior Winemaker at Cofield Wines
“I think I became fascinated by wine’s relationship with geography, history and local culture which made it an exciting medium to engage my curiosity for the world.”
When did you realise you wanted to become a winemaker?
I grew up around the industry as my father was a winemaker and lecturer at Charles Sturt University in Wagga. We spent several years as a family living in Portugal while dad was working for the Fladgate Partnership as a winemaker. It wasn’t until I revisited Porto in my early twenties that I developed a real hunger to learn more about wine. It was sparked by finding a connection with some of my earliest memories, with what I later understood were iconic places in the wine world. I think I became fascinated by wine’s relationship with geography, history and local culture which made it an exciting medium to engage my curiosity for the world.
Please tell us about your career so far.
After completing a Bachelor of Agricultural Science degree at Melbourne University, I began travelling and working vintages both in Australia and Europe. Once I was convinced that I wanted to pursue winemaking as a career, I enrolled in the European Masters of Oenology and Viticulture at the Montpellier SupAgro University in France, I finished my studies and thesis at the Instituto Superior de Agronomia in Portugal. During this time, I worked vintages across Australia, Italy and various areas of Portugal.
After my studies in Lisbon, I moved to Italy, I worked for three years at the ‘La Spinetta’ winery and their newly acquired sparkling wine operation ‘Contratto’ where I learnt about the world of traditional method sparkling wine.
In 2016 I moved to Rutherglen. I initially worked for a Chinese-owned winery where I was able to set-up a brand-new production facility, I then moved to Cofield Wines where I have been the Senior Winemaker since 2021.
What do you love most about being a winemaker?
I enjoy the satisfaction of creating a tangible product that I’m proud of.
Throughout the winemaking process, there is always some problem-solving and creativity involved to reach a point where I’m content with what goes to bottle. This can be really satisfying in the end, especially because you can then share the wine with people.
What is your favourite wine, and what food do you typically pair it with?
I have evolved to like lighter styles as they generally are more versatile. Perhaps a traditional method sparkling wine or Champagne, with one of my favourite seaside dishes from my time in Italy ‘Spaghetti alle Vongole.’
Is there a specific process you follow in developing a new wine?
I start by planning, using theoretical knowledge and experience. I’ll read a lot of magazine articles as well as scientific journals where relevant. Then I will try and taste as much as possible. Once it comes to finishing wines and blending trials, I like to put in headphones and immerse myself in the process while I am tasting and get creative.
Is there a specific vintage you are particularly proud of creating? Why?
So far, I’m particularly proud of our 2021 Provincial Black Shiraz from our Netherby Vineyard in Rutherglen. This was my first vintage at Cofield Wines, and it has received really good reviews from various publications. I have some cellared away and to be able to occasionally open a bottle with family and friends and watch it evolve is both interesting and satisfying.
How does the local climate/soil affect the wine you make?
Although we are on the warm plains of Rutherglen, given the topography of North East Victoria it is only one-and-a-half-hour drive to the snow. This variation in climate means that we can produce medium full bodied red wines from our estate vines here in Rutherglen, while sourcing most of our white varieties from the much cooler King and Alpine Valleys, retaining acidity and detail.
Which of your own varieties do you typically indulge in?
The wine I drink the most would be our Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay. We have recently released our first Grenache which has also become a new favourite. Both are lighter styles which I love as they are fresh and dynamic
Where do you see yourself in five years? How do you think your winemaking will evolve during this time?
I currently have a young family, so in five years I will hopefully return to a little more travel and adventure. The world and Wine Industry appears to be in a significant state of flux, I will remain open and curious, and this will hopefully hold me in good stead
From Wineries of Australia 2026–2027, edited by Alice O’Brien, Belinda Coleman, Chloe Jaenicke and Stefani Grinberg